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Eloge de l'Art par Alain Truong
16 mai 2009

Rare Gem-set and diamond wristwatch/bracelet, Sterlé, 1940s

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Rare Gem-set and diamond wristwatch/bracelet, Sterlé, 1940s

Decorated at the centre with a cabochon ruby supported by pear-shaped emeralds, rubies and diamonds, opening to reveal a circular golden dial applied with black Roman numerals, to the yellow gold fringes, cheveux d'ange, scattered with circular-cut rubies and emeralds, circular- and brilliant-cut diamonds, the straps set with similar stones, signed Sterlé and numbered, French assay marks, a pear-shaped emerald and a few small stones deficient. Est. 36,000—60,000 CHF. Lot Sold 43,750 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Viviane Jutheau, Sterlé Joaillier Paris, Paris, 1990, chapter 'Les Montres' for further examples of wristwaches/bracelets from Sterlé.

NOTE: Nicknamed 'Le Joaillier-Magicien', Pierre Sterlé (1905-1978) was born into a family of high-ranking financial officials. In 1934, after having worked for several jewellers (Boucheron, Ostertag, Chaumet, Kirby, Puiforcat), he set up his business in rue Sainte-Anne before moving to the rue des Moulins and then, in 1945, to his famous salon at 43 avenue de l'Opera. One of the major Parisian jewellers of the Post-War period, Sterlé had an international clientele which included King Farouk and Queen Narriman of Egypt, Lebanese president El Khoury, Brazilian president Vargas, and the writer Colette. He eventually moved to 364 rue Saint-Honoré in 1969 before finally closing down the company in 1976 when he joined Chaumet as a creative advisor.

His remarkable talent and audacious creativeness were able to produce truly original designs, featuring dramatic overlapping and twisted motifs such as ribbons, feathers, leaves, waves, cords and fireworks. Fascinated by the decorative potential offered by gold, he worked and manipulated the metal to reproduce the different textures of fabric and textiles. Some of his most innovative motifs included 'cheveux d'ange' and 'floche' fringes and tassels, as well as 'maillé' and 'tricoté' mesh and basket-weave surface working.

All Sterlé's jewels, whether lavishly set with diamonds or creatively crafted in gold, share the same characteristic of being instantly recognized as the work of a genius.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels And A Celebration of Taste and , Magnificent Jewels from a Private Collection. 12 May 09. Geneva www.sothebys.com photo courtesy Sotheby's

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