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Eloge de l'Art par Alain Truong
16 mai 2009

Pair of yellow gold and diamond ear clips, Van Cleef & Arpels, late 1940s and a bracelet

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Pair of yellow gold and diamond ear clips, Van Cleef & Arpels, late 1940s and a bracelet

The pair of ear clips of passementerie inspiration, set with three cords each with a circular- and brilliant-cut diamond tassel of yellow gold fringes set with single-cut stones, signed V.C.A. U.S - Made in Paris and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, pochette, together with a bracelet of jarretiere design similarly set, adjustable length. Est. 12,000—18,000 CHF. Lot Sold 22,500 CHF

NOTE: Starting in the mid 1940s up to the late 1960s, most of the international jewellers (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Mauboussin, Mellerio, Pierre Sterlé, Fulco di Verdura, Bulgari, Tiffany's Jean Schlumberger, Paul Flato) drew inspiration from the latest neo-Baroque trend in fashion, which was a full reaction against the minimalism of the Art Deco period. This very elaborate style, based on a post-War translation of late XIXth century Historicism, was launched by a small coterie group of grand collectors, artists and interior decorators like Madeleine Castaing, Charles de Bestegui, Cecil Beaton, Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles, Christian Bérard, Jean Cocteau, Emilio Terry, Edward James, José Maria Sert, Leonor Fini and Lady Mendl. Fabrics, embroidery knots, ribbons, pompons, and tassels became sources of inspiration for creating highly decorative jewellery motifs. It was at this time that new metal surfaces were experimented with, and more versatility was seen in designs: interesting necklace, bracelet and brooch combinations.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels And A Celebration of Taste and , Magnificent Jewels from a Private Collection. 12 May 09. Geneva www.sothebys.com photo courtesy Sotheby's

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