1

A black velvet hooded cloak. Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949)

black velvet stencilled with gilt stripes and leaf motif to the bodice and back, fastening with self-covered buttons to the bust. Estimate £4,000 - £6,000 ($$6,636 - $9,954) - Price Realized £9,375 ($15,628)

Literature: Ex. Cat. 'Mariano Fortuny: Venise', Musée Historique des Tissues de Lyon, Lyon 1980, cover, p. 80, p. 117.

Ex. Cat. 'Mariano Fortuny 1871 - 1949: Der Magier des Textilen Design', Osterreichisches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Wien 1985, illustrated on pages 40-41, catalogue number 35.

Notes: This cape is stirring in it simplicity: gold stencilled stripes on a black ground with only a breast patch of pattern to alleviate the severity of the Berber-inspired design.

4

A long, medieval style gown. Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949)

the brown velvet ground stencilled in gold with square panels. Labelled: Mariano Fortuny, Venise. Estimate £5,000 - £8,000 ($8,295 - $13,272) - Price Realized £6,250 ($10,419)

Provenance: Eleanore Duse

Notes : Compare Guillerma de Osma, Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work, published 1980, page 154, photograph of Catherine Hawley, a pupil of Isadora Duncan photographed by Man Ray, apparantly wearing the same model.

1

A rare two-colour 'Delphos' dress. Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949)

of ice blue blue and slate-grey silk, embellished with Murano glass beads to the seams. Estimate £3,000 - £4,000 ($4,977 - $6,636) - Price Realized £5,250 ($8,752)

Literature: Anne-Marie Deschodt, 'Mariano Fortuny: Un Magicien de Venise', Editions du Regard, cover, p. 116, p. 119

Guillermo de Osma, 'Mariano Fortuny: His Life and Work', Rizzoli New York 1980, p. 97.

'Mariano Fortuny, Der Magier des Textilen Design,' Osterreiches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Exhibition 24 May-21 July, 1985, cover image

Notes: Delphos dresses are usually monochromatic. This is an unusual example of a dress with darker side panels, producing an even more columnar effect for the viewer.

1

A transparent 'greek' tunic. Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949)

sleeveless sheer black silk printed in gold with a Grecian-inspired flowering shrub motif. Estimate £1,500 - £2,500 ($2,489 - $4,148) - Price Realized £1,875 ($3,126)

Literature: Ex. Cat. 'Mariano Fortuny 1871 - 1949: Der Magier des Textilen Design', Osterreichisches Museum für Angewandte Kunst, Wien 1985, illustrated on pages 64-65, catalogue number 46/11.

Notes: Mariano Fortuny is celebrated for his stencilled velvets and for his pleated silk dresses inspired by ancient Greek statuary. However, his gauze prints also deserve mention. This example is also based on ancient Greek motifs and perfectly complements the severe lines of a 'Delphos' dress.

5

A honey velvet mantle. Mariano Fortuny, circa 1900

with gilt stencilled hem and sleeves, lined. Labelled: Mariano Fortuny, Venise. Estimate £1,500 - £2,500 ($2,489 - $4,148) - Price Realized £1,875 ($3,126)

Christie's. Fashion Through the Ages. 3 December 2009. London, South Kensington www.christies.com