Pearl, enamel, diamond and molded glass roses brooch, René Lalique, Circa 1900
Pearl, enamel, diamond and molded glass roses brooch, René Lalique, Circa 1900. Photo Sotheby's
Button pearls measuring approximately 4.4 mm., with detachable brooch fitting, signed Lalique. Est. 20,000—30,000 USD - Lot Sold. Hammer Price with Buyer's Premium: 86,500 USD
NOTE: The unexpected color palette of amber, orange and yellow found in this brooch places it within the milieu of René Lalique's "autumnal" compositions. A departure from the lilacs, blues and greens more commonly encountered in his floral creations, these muted tones enhance the piece's sentimental, almost nostalgic appeal. The brooch serves as a poignant metaphor for the period in which it was made—fin de siècle France—a time when reflections upon a waning era were answered by the anticipation of a dawning century. The just-past-their-prime, downward hanging blooms foretell an imminent passing while the plump, silvery white pearls—symbols of purity and rebirth—speak of promise. Such contrasts continue throughout the piece: spiky thorns press against the delicate skins of pearls, and the vines of wild roses twist into neatly-formed knots. This aesthetic frisson is completed by the combination of "high" (diamonds) and "low" (pressed glass), a practice for which Lalique was not only renowned but which also made him a prophet of post-modernist design. For all its possible interpretations, however, the piece is above all a beautiful, wearable jewel.
For other examples of jewels by René Lalique incorporating pressed glass roses, please see The Jewelry of René Lalique, by Vivienne Becker, cat. nos. 57 & 84.
Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 09 Dec 09. New York www.sothebys.com
Commentaires sur Pearl, enamel, diamond and molded glass roses brooch, René Lalique, Circa 1900
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