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Eloge de l'Art par Alain Truong
18 avril 2010

Buccellati jewelry @ Christie's. Jewels, New York, 22 April 2010

Of all the jewelers in the world, Buccellati could be considered to have one of the most distinctive styles. The tradition of gold and silversmithing in the Buccellati family dates back to the early 18th century, when Mario Buccellati founded the jewelry house in Milan, Italy, and where production continues today. Mario Buccellati derived inspiration from the superb craftsmanship of the celebrated 16th century goldsmith and sculptor Benevenuto Cellini. He adopted and modified Cellini’s jewelry technique of “texture engraving” with a bullino, a steel tool similar to a chisel which has been employed by craftsmen since the Renaissance to achieve varying effects on the surface of the metal.

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A rare ruby and diamond ring, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Set with a cushion-cut ruby, weighing approximately 4.46 carats, flanked on either side by an old mine-cut diamond, to the sculpted 18k gold foliate gallery and textured hoop, mounted in 18k gold, circa 1935. Signed M. Buccellati for Mario Buccellati, Italy - Est. $100,000 - $150,000

With report 0910639 dated 30 October 2009 from the Gübelin Gem Lab stating that gemmological testing revealed characteristics consistent with those of rubies originating from Burma (Myanmar). No indications of heating

With report 92052809 dated 6 March 2006 from the AGTA Gemological Testing Center stating that the data obtained during the examination of this ruby indicates that the probable geographic origin is Burma (Myanmar). No indications of heating

With a copy of a letter from Luca Buccellati, stating that this ring is a genuine and original Buccellati jewel

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A diamond, colored diamond and cultured pearl necklace, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

The front designed as a band of circular-cut diamond leaves, spaced by five cultured pearls, measuring from approximately 10.20 to 13.35 mm diameter, suspending five drop-shaped cultured pearls, measuring from approximately 12.00 to 13.40 mm diameter, each topped with a single-cut yellow diamond and sculpted 18k gold cap, from a collet-set yellow diamond link, to the white gold foliate backchain, mounted in 18k yellow and white gold, 16½ ins., in a Buccellati navy blue leather case. Signed Buccellati, Italy, no. U 3179 - Est. $30,000 - $50,000

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A pair of diamond, gold and white gold bracelets, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Each designed as a textured 18k yellow or white gold hinged cuff, decorated with circular-cut diamonds, each within a sculpted white gold navette-shaped surround, each 2¼ ins. diameter, 1 in. width, each in a Buccellati navy leather case. Each signed M. Buccellati for Mario Buccellati, Italy (2). Est. $25,000 - $35,000

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An ebony, citrine and gold bracelet, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Of bombé design, the textured 18k gold hinged cuff centering upon three bezel-set oval-cut citrines, each within a sculpted gold surround, to the domed ebony plaque, mounted in 18k gold, 2¼ ins. diameter, 1½ ins. width, the underside inscribed "Stay close to me, Your loving husband - April 9, 1965," in a Buccellati navy satin box. Signed Buccellati, Italy, no. 96. Est. $15,000 - $20,000

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A diamond and gold bracelet, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Designed as a textured 18k gold hinged cuff, enhanced by circular-cut diamonds within 18k white gold florettes, trimmed by circular-cut diamonds and engraved foliate detail, 2¼ ins. diameter, ¾ ins. width. Signed M. Buccellati for Mario Buccellati, Italy. Est. $12,000 - $18,000

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A diamond, ruby and gold brooch, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Designed as a bouquet of old mine-cut diamond flowers, extending a spray of gold knife-edge stems, to the bezel-set circular and rose-cut diamond arched surround, gathered by a textured 18k gold ribbon, mounted in 18k yellow and white gold, circa 1955, in a Buccellati brown leather case. Signed Buccellati. Est. $12,000 - $18,000

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A diamond and gold bracelet, by Buccellati. Photo: Christie's Images Ltd., 2010.

Designed as a textured 18k gold hinged cuff, decorated with circular-cut diamonds, each within a sculpted 18k white gold navette-shaped surround, 2 1/8 ins. diameter, 1 in. width, in a Buccellati blue satin case. Signed M. Buccellati for Mario Buccellati, Italy. Est. $10,000 - $15,000

Christie's. Jewels: The New York Sale, with The Catherine the Great Emerald Brooch and The Emperor Maximilian Diamond. 22 April 2010. New York, Rockefeller Plaza www.christies.com 

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