GE1002_262_lr_1

Pair of gold, enamel and diamond bracelet, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Each decorated with white enamel and brilliant-cut diamond scale motifs, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, length approximately 182mm, both signed David Webb. weight 155. Est. 15,000—20,000 CHF. Lot Sold 65,000 CHF

GE1002_267_lr_1

Enamel, ruby, chrysoprase and diamond bangle, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Of cross over design, the front with two white enamel dragon head terminals, each with cabochon ruby eyes, decorated at the top with brilliant-cut diamonds and cabochon chrysoprase, mounted in yellow gold, signed Webb. weight 209. Est. 40,000—60,000 CHF. Lot Sold 62,500 CHF

GE1002_266_lr_1

White enamel and diamond long chain, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a line of white enamel links suspending to the centre a pendant designed as a white enamel scorpion set with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold, may be worn as a brooch, both signed Webb. weight 231. Est. 25,000—35,000 CHF. Lot Sold 60,000 CHF

GE1002_257_lr_1

Ruby, emerald, sapphire and diamond pendent necklace, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

The Maltese cross pendant decorated in white enamel, set at the centre with a cabochon ruby within surrounds of brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut emeralds and sapphires, signed Webb, may be worn as a brooch, suspended from a necklace of enamel spheres, mounted in yellow gold, length approximately 915mm, divides into 4 sections forming 2 necklaces measuring respectively 435 and 480mm. weight 350. Est. 25,000—35,000 CHF. Lot Sold 40,000 CHF

GE1002_207_lr_1

Yellow gold, platinum and diamond bracelet, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Of bombé form, designed with diagonal lines of brilliant-cut diamonds alternating with lines of yellow gold beads, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, length approximately 180mm, signed Webb. weight 139. Est. 16,000—25,000 CHF. Lot Sold 33,750 CHF

GE1002_255_lr_1

Enamel, ruby and diamond bangle and a ring, 1960. David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as an horse, the body applied with white enamel, the top of the head set with brilliant-cut diamonds, to the cabochon ruby eyes, together with a ring of similar design, bracelet internal circumference 160mm, signed Webb, ring unsigned, size 50. weight 129. Est. 17,000—19,000 CHF. Lot Sold 32,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Elizabeth Taylor, My Love Affair with Jewelry, 2002, page 164, for a similar horse bracelet.

GE1002_179_lr_1

Turquoise, enamel and diamond parure, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a bracelet of carved turquoise batons spaced with black enamel and brilliant-cut diamond links, length approximately 185mm, together with a pair of ear clips and a ring en suite, ring size 53½, mounted in yellow gold, all signed Webb. weight 220. Est. 15,000—20,000 CHF. Lot Sold 31,350CHF

GE1002_184_lr_1

Gold, peridot and emerald brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a dragon clutching a multifaceted peridot egg, with an emerald eye, mounted in yellow gold, can be worn as a pendant, signed Webb. weight 115. Est. 25,000—35,000 CHF. Lot Sold 31,250CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Marguerite de Cerval, Dictionnaire du Bijou, Paris, 1998, page 549 for another example of a similar brooch.

GE1002_169_lr_1

Turquoise and diamond bracelet, David Webb, 1962. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a line of leaves set with brilliant-cut diamonds and interspersed with cabochon turquoises, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, length approximately 183mm, signed Webb. weight 65. Est. 10,000—15,000 CHF. Lot Sold 26,250CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, 1989, page 436, for another example of a similar bracelet.

GE1002_265_lr_1

White enamel and diamond crab long chain, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a line of white enamel crab claw links suspending to the centre a pendant designed as a crab set with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, can be worn as a brooch, both signed Webb. weight 199. Est. 20,000—30,000 CHF. Lot Sold 25,000 CHF

GE1002_180_lr_1

Aquamarine, ruby and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Modelled as a fish surrounding a large aquamarine, the eye set with a cabochon ruby, the scales with brilliant-cut diamonds and decorated with white enamel, signed David Webb. weight 54. Est. 15,000—20,000 CHF. Lot Sold 21,250CHF

GE1002_172_lr_1

Lapis lazuli and diamond ear clips and ring, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

The ear clips suspending a lapis lazuli drop surmounted by triangular and brilliant-cut diamonds, the ring decorated with an oval lapis lazuli flanked by brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, all signed Webb. weight 100. Est. 8,000—16,000 CHF. Lot Sold 20,000 CHF

GE1002_258_lr_1

White enamel, sapphire, ruby and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a rhinoceros, the white enamelled head decorated with a pear-shaped sapphire eye and brilliant-cut diamond set mouth, the body with carved rubies, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed David Webb. weight 41. Est. 8,000—12,000 CHF. Lot Sold 17,500 CHF

GE1002_174_lr_1

Lapis lazuli, coral and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a drop set to the centre with a pear-shaped coral within surrounds of brilliant-cut diamonds, lapis lazulis and corals, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Webb, may be worn as a pendant. weight 69. Est. 8,000—16,000 CHF. Lot Sold 16,250 CHF

GE1002_209_lr_1

Two enamel and yellow gold bracelets, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Flexible, each in a stylised mozaïque design, respectively set with white and black enamel, mounted in yellow gold, length respectively 165 and 170mm, signed Webb. weight 210. Est. 5,500—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 16,250 CHF

GE1002_188_lr_1

Gold, enamel, cultured pearl, ruby and diamond brooch , David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a fish, with cabochon ruby eyes, the body applied with blue and green translucent enamel, the head set with a large cultured pearl within brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold, signed Webb. weight 60. Est. 7,000—10,000 CHF. Lot Sold 15,000 CHF

GE1002_253_lr_1

Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Of stylised flower head design, set with cabochon rubies, brilliant- and circular-cut and cushion-shaped diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Webb. weight  22. Est. 8,000—12,000 CHF. Lot Sold 13,750 CHF

GE1002_261_lr_1

Enamel, coral, ruby and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a panther head, with cabochon ruby eyes, set with brilliant-cut diamonds and coral, mounted in yellow gold, signed Webb. weight 49. Est. 10,000—15,000 CHF. Lot Sold 12,500 CHF

GE1002_186_lr_1

Rock crystal, enamel and ruby brooch/pendant, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a fish, the body of faceted rock crystal with a cabochon ruby eye further applied with blue and green translucent enamel, pendant fitting, mounted in yellow gold , signed Webb. weight 75. Est. 9,000—12,000 CHF. Lot Sold 12,500 CHF

GE1002_212_lr_1

White enamel and diamond pendent necklace, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

The annular yellow gold chain accented with geometric plaques inset with white enamel, decorated with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 410mm, signed Webb. weight 101. Est. 7,500—11,000 CHF. Lot Sold 11,250 CHF

GE1002_264_lr_1

Red enamel and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a crab decorated in translucent red enamel and set with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold, signed Webb. weight 49. Est. 8,000—12,000 CHF. Lot Sold 10,625 CHF

GE1002_206_lr_1

Azurite and diamond demi-parure, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Comprising: a ring designed with carved azurite edged with brilliant-cut diamonds, size 52, and a pair of ear clips en suite, all mounted in yellow gold and platinum and signed Webb. weight 53. Est. 5,000—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 10,250 CHF

GE1002_259_lr_1

Enamel, ruby and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

The brooch modelled as a coiled snake with cabochon ruby eyes, studded with brilliant-cut diamonds, to a white enamel scaled body, mounted in yellow gold, signed David Webb. weight 65. Est. 8,000—12,000 CHF. Lot Sold 10,000 CHF

GE1002_263_lr_1

Pair of enamel and diamond ear clips and a ring, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Each ear clip decorated with white enamel and brilliant-cut diamond scales, together with a ring en suite, size 56, all mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Webb, loss to enamel. weight 49. Est. 8,000—12,000 CHF. Lot Sold 10,000 CHF

GE1002_176_lr_1

Pair of gold and ruby ear clips, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Each modelled as a seahorse with cabochon ruby eye and yellow gold body, signed Webb. weight 30. Est. 7,000—10,000 CHF. Lot Sold 8,750 CHF

GE1002_182_lr_1

Enamel, turquoise and diamond Libra brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as the zodiac sign Libra, set with white enamel, brilliant-cut diamonds and pear shaped cabochon turquoise, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Webb, fitted case. weight 50. Est. 6,000—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 8,750 CHF

GE1002_183_lr_1

Gold, enamel and turquoise brooch/ pendant, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Decorated with white enamel and cabochon turquoise, mounted in yellow gold, signed Webb, fitted case. weight 101. Est. 7,000—10,000 CHF. Lot Sold 8,750 CHF

GE1002_187_lr_1

Pair of ruby and enamel ear clips, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Each designed as a frog, the body applied with translucent green enamel, with gold studs, to the cabochon ruby eyes; mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Webb. weight 56. Est. 4,000—6,000 CHF. Lot Sold 8,125 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: David Bennett & Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, 1989, page 420 for similar pair of ear clips sold as lot 45 in The Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor, Sotheby's Geneva, 1987.

GE1002_254_lr_1

Enamel, emerald and diamond brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Designed as a horse, set with brilliant-cut diamonds, the body applied with white enamel, to the cabochon emerald eyes, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, signed Webb. weight 45. Est. 6,000—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 7,500 CHF

GE1002_260_lr_1

Pair of enamel ear clips, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Each modelled as a tiger with red enamel eyes and a white enamelled body, mounted in yellow gold, signed Webb. weight 28. Est. 6,000—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 7,500 CHF

GE1002_201_lr_1

Cultured pearl and diamond bangle, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

The hinged bangle decorated with two cultured pearls of white tint, accented with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, circumference approximately 155mm, signed Webb. weight 57. Est. 5,500—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 7,000 CHF

GE1002_185_lr_1

Gold brooch, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Modelled as a Centaur grasping a bow and arrow, mounted in yellow gold signed David Webb and Webb. weight 28. Est. 6,000—8,000 CHF. Lot Sold 5,000 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Centaurs, part human and part horse, were descendants of Centaurus, a son of the god Apollo. Governed by the bestial half of their double nature are described for their uncouth behavior and wild reaction to very small amount of wine.

GE1002_210_lr_1

Enamel and diamond ring, David Webb. photo Sotheby's

Composed of two stylised papyrus motifs inset with white enamel, accented with a pavé-set brilliant-cut diamond link, mounted in yellow gold and platinum, size 52, signed Webb. weight 25. Est. 3,000—4,000 CHF. Lot Sold 3,500 CHF

NOTE: Founded in New York in 1947 by David Webb and Nina Silberstein, it wasn't until 1963 that a permanent salon was established on 57th street; before that Webb jewels could only be purchased in upscale Manhattan department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Bonwit Teller. Webb drew inspiration from the ancient civilizations of Greece, Rome and India, as well as the Mayan culture of Central America, evident in his bold hammered yellow gold designs. He also was influenced by Carl Faberge's imaginative combinations of enamel and semi-precious stones. Webb is perhaps best known for his animal creations, which were inspired by and in homage to Jeanne Toussaint, the brilliant creator of Cartier's Great Cat jewels. His fanciful horse, tiger and zebra designs, made of intricately worked enamel and unusual stones and materials, were an immediate success. First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy commissioned Webb to create unique objects, using American materials, to give as state gifts. Another loyal client was the Duchess of Windsor, who had several Webb creations, including a whimsical bright green enamel frog bangle and matching earclips. Webb passed away in 1975, but his instantly recognizable jewels continue to attract attention to this day.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels. 11 May 10. Geneva www.sothebys.com