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Eloge de l'Art par Alain Truong
1 septembre 2010

"Valentino, Retrospective: Past/Present/Future" @ the Queensland Art Gallery

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Valentino | Evening gown (detail) | Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2008, Model 184 | Strapless evening gown made of silk voile appliquéd with silk voile ruffles and corollas in graduated shades of pink; fabric: Clerici-Tessuto | Collection: Valentino Archives | Photograph: Jean Tholance

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Valentino | Evening gown| Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2008, Model 184 | Strapless evening gown made of silk voile appliquéd with silk voile ruffles and corollas in graduated shades of pink; fabric: Clerici-Tessuto | Collection: Valentino Archives | Photograph: Jean Tholance

Exclusive to Brisbane, ‘Valentino, Retrospective: Past/Present/Future’ is a major exhibition developed by the renowned institution, Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris. It explores the work of the celebrated Italian fashion house Valentino, known around the world for its sophisticated, timeless design and glamorous clientele.

The exhibition encompasses haute couture from the first collection designed in 1959 by the house’s founder, Valentino Garavani, through to work from the Autumn/Winter 2009–10 creations by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli – appointed as creative directors for Valentino in 2008. Exquisite haute couture garments will reveal Valentino’s mastery of the elegant line, classic form and opulent detail. Particular themes will be explored uniting Valentino’s design approach over five decades: these include the recurrence of geometric patterns and graphic prints, the skilful use of fabric to create dramatic silhouettes and, of course, the distinctive palette of black, white and ‘Valentino red’. The future direction of this most esteemed fashion label is showcased through five creations by the house of Valentino’s new creative directors.

Designs from house of Valentino have been coveted and worn by European royalty, Hollywood celebrities and members of high society the world over. This magnificent exhibition will include garments worn by stars such as Cate Blanchett, Nicole Kidman, Julia Roberts, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, Elizabeth Taylor and more.

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Valentino Evening ensemble Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007–08, Model 170 / Empire dress with draped bodice, sheath with ribbed darts and triangular train made of pink silk crêpe; cape entirely composed of pink organdy petals; fabric: Ostinelli; embroidery: Pino Grasso / Collection: Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris / Photograph: Jean Tholance.

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Valentino Evening ensemble Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007–08, Model 170 / Empire dress with draped bodice, sheath with ribbed darts and triangular train made of pink silk crêpe; cape entirely composed of pink organdy petals; fabric: Ostinelli; embroidery: Pino Grasso / Collection: Les Arts Décoratifs, Paris / Photograph: Jean Tholance.

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Valentino Evening gown (detail) Haute Couture Autumn/Winter 2007–08, Model 108 / Fleshcoloured evening gown embroidered with ostrich feather fringes in a camaïeu of pinks alternating with bands of pink beads and lines of white strass crytals; fabric: Sophie Halette; embroidery: Shameeza; feathers: Galeotti / Collection: Valentino Archives / Photograph: Jean Tholance.(

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Valentino Evening suit (detail) Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2008, Model 98 / Evening suit made of pale tulle appliquéd with an origami in pink faille embroidered with iridescent pink glass beads, knotted half belt, overstitched pink stain collar and cuffs; fabric: Buche-Guillaud; embroidery: Pino Grasso / Collection: Valentino Archives / Photograph: Jean Tholance.

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Valentino Evening ensemble (detail) Haute Couture Spring/Summer 1969, Model 252 Evening ensemble: jacket and trousers made of pleated orange silk radiating out from the neck and waist; fabric: Taroni / Collection: Comtesse Inge Cacciagurra / Photograph: Jean Tholance.

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Valentino Evening coat Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2009-10, Look 15 / Black gazar coat with triple gazar frill cutouts / Collection: Valentino Archives.

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Valentino Evening dress Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2009-10, Look 27 / Chrysalis dress in bronze and black organza with encrusted lacquered lace / Collection: Valentino Archives.

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Valentino Evening dress Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2009-10, Look 27 / Chrysalis dress in bronze and black organza with encrusted lacquered lace / Collection: Valentino Archives.

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Runway shot of Valentino Evening dress Haute Couture Autumn Winter 2009-10, Look 33 / Tattoo dress “oiseaux de nuit” in Chantilly lace, feathers and “lave” / Collection: Valentino Archives. Photograph: Nathalie Lagneau/Catwalking.

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Valentino | Evening gown | Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2003, Model 130 | Strapless evening gown with low-set draped pale crimson chiffon sleeves, a train with appliqué pleated crimson taffeta rosettes and red strass crystals in their centres, and pink and grey taffeta rosettes in its lining; fabric: Buche-Guillaud; embroidery: Marabitti | Collection: Valentino Archives | Photograph: Jean Tholance

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