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Eloge de l'Art par Alain Truong
17 novembre 2010

Van Cleef & Arpels Ruby and diamond jewelry @ Sotheby's Geneva

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Fine Ruby and diamond brooch 'Cadix', Van Cleef & Arpels, 2000. photo courtesy Sothebys

Of flower head inspiration, the petals set en serti mysterieux with calibré-cut rubies, to a brilliant-cut diamonds pistil set en tremblant, signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 120,000—180,000 CHF. Lot Sold 422,500 CHF

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Very Attractive Pair of ruby and diamond ear clips 'Cadix', Van Cleef & Arpels, 2000. photo courtesy Sothebys

Each designed as a flower head, the petals set en serti mysterieux, with calibré-cut rubies, to a brilliant-cut diamond pistil set en tremblant, signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 80,000—120,000 CHF. Lot Sold 326,500 CHF

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Ruby and diamond necklace, Van Cleef & Arpels, 'Verlaine', and a pair of ear clips. photo courtesy Sothebys

The necklace designed as a series of scalloped clusters set with cabochon rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds, the spacers set with similar stones, length approximately 410mm, signed VCA and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, detaches to form one bracelet measuring approximately 170mm, together with a pair of pendant ear clips, set with similar stones and brilliant-cut diamonds of yellow tint, all mounted in yellow gold. Est. 75,000—130,000 CHF. Lot Sold 110,500 CHF

Property of a lady - Formerly in the collection of Christina Onassis

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Ruby and diamond bangle, Van Cleef & Arpels. photo courtesy Sothebys

The hinged bangle set with calibré-cut rubies and brilliant-cut diamonds, decorated with a diamond set clasp accented with a ruby cut en cabochon, mounted in yellow gold, circumference approximately 160mm, signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 25,000—35,000 CHF. Lot Sold 50,000 CHF

Property of a lady - Formerly in the collection of Christina Onassis

NOTE: Christina Onassis was born in New York City in 1950, the only daughter of Greek shipping tycoon Aristotle Onassis. She grew up amidst immense wealth, and her life was spent between Paris, New York, Athens and on the Christina, the fabulous yacht her father built and named after her. After her father died in 1975, Christina took over the reigns of the Onassis empire, and proved to be a very astute business woman. She was president of the Alexander S. Onassis Foundation, which was established in memory of her brother who died in 1973. Christina passed away in Argentina in 1988, at the age of 37.

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Pair of diamond earrings, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1970 and a pair of ruby pendants. photo courtesy Sothebys

Each surmount of cluster design set with marquise-, pear-shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds, clip fittings, signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY and numbered, maker's marks, French import marks, suspending a detachable drop set with French- and calibré-cut rubies in concealed settings, to a diamond set cap, drops unsigned, pochette. Est. 125,000—180,000 CHF. Lot Sold 170,500 CHF

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Ruby and diamond necklace, 'Segovia', Van Cleef & Arpels. photo courtesy Sothebys

Composed of three rows of ruby beads highlighted with brilliant-cut diamond set spacers, suspending a tassel of similar stones, mounted in yellow gold, length approximately 400mm, signed VCA and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Estimate 40,000—60,000 CHF. Lot Sold 170,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Sylvie Raulet, Van Cleef & Arpels, New York, 1987, page 77 for an example of a similar necklace by Van Cleef & Arpels

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Ruby, enamel and gold clip, 'Chou', Van Cleef and Arpels, circa 1945. photo courtesy Sothebys

Designed as a stylised lace tissue evoking the dentelle de Valenciennes, set with repercé yellow gold and white enamel, to the circular-cut ruby and circular-cut diamond accents, signed Van Cleef & Arpels, French assay and maker's marks. Est. 15,000—25,000 CHF. Lot Sold 43,750 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris 1992, page 158 for an illustration of a similar clip set with sapphires.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 16 Nov 10. Geneva www.sothebys.com

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