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An impressive fancy colored diamond pendant necklace. photo Bonhams

Bonhams is pleased to announce the December 15, 2010 sale of Fine Jewelry in New York. Simulcast between New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco, the 167 lot auction will feature a vast array of diamonds, art deco baubles and modern jewelry; including offerings from important designers such as: Andrew Grima, Bulgari, David Webb, Mauboussin, Tiffany & Co., and Valentin Magro.

Virginia Salem, Director, Jewelry, said, "Building on the renewed strength of the international and national jewelry market, we are pleased to present fresh offerings of all periods that have been procured from widespread estates, private individuals and collections through out the US. Highlighting the list is a rare 25.56 carat natural fancy yellow diamond from a Midwestern collector."

The highlighting sale, an impressive fancy colored diamond pendant necklace, is a cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 25.56 carats within a bezel-set mount and suspended from a fancy-link white gold necklace; stating natural fancy yellow even color with VS1 clarity (est. $350,000-450,000).

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An impressive fancy colored diamond pendant necklace. photo Bonhams

the cut-cornered square modified brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 25.56 carats within a bezel-set mount and suspended from a fancy-link white gold necklace; mounted in eighteen karat bicolor gold; length of necklace: 17 3/4in. (diamond currently unset from mount) - Estimate: $350,000 - 450,000

Accompanied by GIA report #1122747658, dated October 28, 2010, stating natural fancy yellow even color, VS1 clarity.

Additional diamond rings of interest include: the diamond three-stone ring, a rectangular-cut diamond, weighing 7.01 carats, flanked by rectangular-cut diamonds each weighing 1.21 carats, completed by round brilliant-cut diamond five stone-shoulders (est. $170,000-190,000); the colored diamond and diamond ring, an old European-cut fancy orangey-pink diamond, weighing 1.23 carats; within a broad mounting accentuated by two modified square-cut diamonds (est. $50,000-70,000); and a diamond solitaire ring, a square modified brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 5.15 carats, with tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders and a plain mount; F color, VS2 clarity (est. $80,000-100,000).

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A diamond three-stone ring. photo Bonhams

centering a rectangular-cut diamond, weighing 7.01 carats, flanked by rectangular-cut diamonds each weighing 1.21 carats, completed by round brilliant-cut diamond five-stone shoulders; mounted in platinum; size 5 1/4. Estimate: $170,000 - 190,000

Accompanied by GIA report #12776079, dated August 11, 2003, stating the 7.01 carat diamond as: G color, VS1 clarity.

Accompanied by GIA report #12763469, dated August 14, 2003, stating the 1.21 carat diamond as: G color, VVS1 clarity.

Accompanied by GIA report #13091974, dated February 28, 2004, stating the 1.21 carat diamond as: H color, VVS1 clarity.

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A colored diamond and diamond ring. photo Bonhams

the old European-cut fancy orangy-pink diamond, weighing 1.23 carats; within a broad mounting accentuated by two modified square-cut diamonds; mounted in eighteen karat white gold; size 5 1/4 (pink diamond currently unset from mount). Estimate: $50,000 - 70,000

Accompanied by GIA report #5121668306, dated October 15, 2010, stating the old European-cut diamond as: natural fancy orangy-pink even color.

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A diamond solitaire ring. photo Bonhams

the square modified brilliant-cut diamond, weighing 5.15 carats, with tapered baguette-cut diamond shoulders and a plain mount; mounted in platinum; size 7. Estimate: $80,000 - 100,000

Accompanied by GIA report #2125747649, dated October 29, 2010, stating: F color, VS2 clarity.

The sale features an important "Tutti-Frutti" bracelet by famous Parisian joaillerie, Mauboussin, who's signature style of the late 1920's were colorful and textured pieces, melded with cultural inspiration and artistic prowess. The bracelet, a diamond, gem-set and enameled wrist adornment, circa 1930, encapsulates this period in history; total estimated weight 13.90 carats (est. $15,000-20,000).

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An art deco diamond, gem-set and enamel bracelet, Mauboussin, French, circa 1930. photo Bonhams

designed as three lozenge-shaped panels centering carved sapphire and ruby leaves and an emerald bead, accentuated with old European and baguette-cut diamonds and black enamel detail, each with openwork oval-shaped spacers of baguette and old European-cut diamonds; signed Mauboussin, with French assay marks and maker's mark; estimated total diamond weight: 13.90 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 6 7/8in. (some loss to enamel). Estimate: $15,000 - 25,000

MAUBOUSSIN. During the art deco period, the premier Parisian house of Mauboussin was busy catering to their international clientele by providing a wide range of exquisitely crafted designs. Early in the 1920's jewelry design was based on the pure paradigm of geometry, color contrast and stylization. These primary characteristics reflect the reaction from the Cubist, Fauve and Futurist art movements for structure, while form and decorative inspirations came from the Chinese, Russian, Persian and Indian cultures. Women's roles changed dramatically at the beginning of the century, embracing newly found freedom, brought on by war and advances in technology and industry. These fundamental influences were integrated into the fine, decorative and applied arts, expanding beyond the parameters of fashion, textiles, and architecture, infiltrating all aspects of society. Regaining opulence and wealth, society flourished, as did jewelry design which became a fertile environment for experimentation. Founded in 1827, Mauboussin opened their new workshop and retail store in 1923 on the rue de Choiseul in Paris, under the direction of Georges Mauboussin. During the first half of the 20th century, Mauboussin participated in all major exhibitions; and was awarded with the "Légion d'Honneur" in the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris for his contributions to the world of joaillerie. As an innovative leader, Mauboussin organized three gemstone themed traveling exhibitions between 1928 and 1931. These events promoted and garnered recognition of their creative jewels set with ruby, emerald and diamond. During this time, Georges was joined by his son, Pierre, who brought a fresh new style to the firm Pierre Mauboussin was drawn to modernism, and his creations, unlike the early 1920's flattened interpretations became alive and threedimensional. By 1928, the sculptural elements and colorful textured gemstones were featured in vast number of creations by Mauboussin, which were often showcased on the female icons in Vogue. This "Tutti-Frutti" bracelet is a perfect example of this era. Indian inspired, Mauboussin opts for the colorful and textured carved fruit and berry clusters of sapphire, ruby and emerald. These colorful clusters center semi-cylindrical fields of colorless three dimensional texture expressed with circular and baguette-cut diamonds, accented with horizontal bands of black enamel, contrasted by alternating links of flat colorless diamond oval cutout links suggestive of negative space. This design is patterned with color, texture, and elevation; it is sculptural and seductive, melding cultural inspiration with artistic prowess, indicative
of the signature style of Mauboussin.

Several offerings of note include pieces from the modern jewelry designer, Andrew Grima, whose cutting-edge designs attracted clients such as Jacqueline Onassis, Ursula Andress, Princess Margaret and the Queen. The collection showcases: an opal and diamond ring, a square shaped opal within a scalloped surround of pave'-set round brilliant-cut of 4 carat diamonds and a tapered gold mount (est. $2,500-3,500); a citrine, emerald, diamond and eighteen karat gold bracelet, of tapered and openwork design with five oval-shaped citrines, and accentuated intermittently with round brilliant-cut diamonds and circular-cut emeralds (est. $6,000-8,000); and a green beryl and diamond pendant designed as a bezel-set cushion-shaped cabochon green beryl with a geometric surmount of round brilliant-cut diamonds, suspended from an associated eighteen karat gold torque necklace, weighing approximately 35.00 carats (est. $4,000-6,000).

Further eye-catching jewels for auction are: a diamond, ruby and eighteen karat gold bangle bracelet by Valentin Magro, total diamond weight 27.50 carats (est. $12,000-15,000); a diamond, enamel and eighteen karat gold sautoir and pendant by David Webb; total diamond weight 17.00 carats (est. $20,000-30,000); a cat's eye chrysoberyl and diamond ring, chrysoberyl weighing approximately 35.00 carats; estimated total diamond weight 1.30 carats (est. $5,000-7,000); and a diamond, sapphire and emerald bracelet, by Oscar Heyman & Brothers; estimated total diamond weight 4.50 carats (est. $5,000-7,000).

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A diamond, ruby and eighteen karat gold bangle bracelet, Valentin Magro, 2004. photo Bonhams

the hinged bangle centering two addorsed snakes, pavé-set throughout with round brilliant-cut diamonds, and accentuated with oval cabochon ruby eyes; signed Valentin Magro; estimated total diamond weight: 27.50 carats; diameter: 2 1/4in. Estimate: $12,000 - 15,000

VALENTIN MAGRO
Valentin Magro, artist and designer, is renowned for creating distinctive jewels for his private patrons. His creations, while each unique, share his signature elements; the harmonious relationship of color, nature, and balance, typically whimsical and bold, they intentionally reflect the personality and lifestyle of the wearer. Born on Malta, Magro immigrated to the United States at eighteen, to study architectural and structural engineering. Innately interested in spatial relationships, and skilled draftsman, he was afflicted with wanderlust, which caused him to change his direction and become what he is today, a designer, master jeweler, and an artist. Eventually settling in New York, and working for the venerable houses of Tiffany & Company, David Webb and Harry Winston, he honed his craft manufacturing high-end jewelry to an art. Today, he designs and manufactures his own creations. Typically working hand in hand with a patron he starts by offering several design ideas, making seven or eight drawings displaying various adaptations of a theme. Then they narrow down the selection to three drawings. From there, the stones and metals are chosen; undoubtedly color, saturation, liveliness, shape and size are of utmost importance. Once these details are finalized, a model is created and examined for perfection. Balance and harmony are vital to all Magro's creations, as is the meticulous setting, polishing and intricate bench work utilized in the final work. The three designs on this page all display the predisposition towards a whimsical nature theme, each created for client and friend, Joy Bogen, the famous Metropolitan Opera soprano. Magro was successful in capturing her fondness for snakes in this large voluptuous bangle. For this commission, it took several months to create the perfect balance of black and white space of the snake's skin, as well as an elaborately engineered hinged band. The adorable and life sized mahogany frog brooch needed additional brilliance to reflect the lifestyle of Ms. Bogen, so Magro speckled the reptile body with numerous diamonds emulating water droplets. To the opal fish brooch, Bogen was attracted to Magro's amusing paveset starfish and golden pearl nestled amidst lush reef life. These remarkable creations, which are so inimically and unmistakably Magro, are beautifully and thoughtfully crafted. They are bold, individual and fanciful jewels which exemplify the genius of an artist.

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A diamond, enamel and eighteen karat gold sautoir and pendant, David Webb. photo Bonhams

the necklace designed as a series of openwork geometric links accentuated with round brilliant-cut diamonds, the detachable pendant of geometric circular design, centering a panel of pavé-set round brilliant-cut diamonds; necklace signed David Webb; estimated total diamond weight: 17.00 carats; diamonds mounted in platinum; necklace length: 30 1/2in; pendant length: 2 5/8in. (minor loss to enamel). Estimate: $20,000 - 30,000

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A cat's eye chrysoberyl and diamond ring. photo Bonhams

centering an oval cabochon cat's eye chrysoberyl within a round brilliant-cut diamond surround, completed by baguette-cut diamond shoulders and a plain mount; chrysoberyl weighing approximately: 35.00 carats; estimated total diamond weight: 1.30 carats; mounted in platinum; size 6. Estimate: $5,000 - 7,000

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A diamond, sapphire and emerald bracelet, Oscar Heyman & Brothers. photo Bonhams

designed as a central row of French-cut sapphires bordered by single-cut diamonds, accentuated by twin oval-shaped diamond panels joined by arches of baguette-cut diamonds and calibré-cut emeralds; unsigned, no. 12559; estimated total diamond weight: 4.50 carats; mounted in platinum; length: 7in. Estimate: $5,000 - 7,000