18 Karat Gold and Diamond 'Tulip' Double-Clip Brooch, René Boivin, France, Circa 1940. Photo Sotheby's
The polished gold flowers designed as tulips set throughout with rose-cut diamonds, maker's mark for Boivin, French assay marks, flowers detach to be worn separately. Estimate 25,000—35,000 USD. Lot Sold 40,625 USD
NOTE: A similar brooch is illustrated in René Boivin: Jeweller, Françoise Cailles, p. 229.
The tulip clip is a true signature design of the House of Boivin. When many French firms moved away from naturalism in the wake of the Art Deco movement, Boivin did not. The firm followed the fashion of the new geometry, but also continued to sculpt floral creations, mostly in yellow gold. In the 1940s and 50s, the flowers became more stylized in their imagery as is the case with this double-clip brooch.
Pair of 18 Karat Gold, Coral and Sapphire Earclips, René Boivin, France. Photo Sotheby's
Composed of fluted coral segments accented by polished gold bands, set with square-cut sapphires, signed R. Boivin, partial maker's marks, French assay marks. Estimate 8,000—12,000 USD. Lot Sold 10,000 USD
Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels. 14 Apr 11. New York www.sothebys.com