Un record du monde pour une tiare vendue aux enchères @ Sotheby's Geneva

A magnificent and extremely rare emerald and diamond tiara, circa 1900 sold for CHF 11,282,500 / $12,736,927 (Est. CHF 4.6-9.2 million/$5-10 million). Photo: Sotheby's

Sotheby’s Genève – Ce soir, Sotheby’s Genève a vendu la plus importante tiare en émeraudes et diamants mise sur le marché depuis plus de 30 ans pour la somme de CHF 11.282.500 ($12.736.927), le prix le plus haut jamais atteint pour une tiare vendue aux enchères. Six acheteurs potentiels se sont disputés cette magnifique tiare en émeraudes et en diamants, faisant monter les enchères bien au-delà de l’estimation (est. CHF 4.6-9.2 millions/ $5-10 millions). Commissionnée vers 1900 et ayant appartenu à la collection de la Princesse Katharina Henckel von Donnersmarck, cette pièce somptueuse (lot 443) a également établi une enchère record pour un bijou en émeraudes. La vente de Haute Joaillerie et de bijoux de provenance aristocratique a réalisé un total de CHF 78.944.900/ $89.121.687, éclipsant les estimations de CHF 41,9-69 millions ($47.3-77.9 millions) et établissant ainsi le troisième total le plus élevé pour une vente de haute joaillerie.

Pour David Bennett, Président du Département de Haute Joaillerie de Sotheby’s pour l’Europe et le Moyen-Orient: « Ce fut un honneur pour Sotheby’s de pouvoir présenter ce qui constitue peut-être le joyau le plus somptueux  mis aux enchères depuis plus de trente années. Nous sommes ravis que cette magnifique tiare ait été accueillie avec tant d’enthousiasme. Toutes les catégories de la vente - bijoux de provenance aristocratique, diamants, gemmes de couleur et créations des plus grands joailliers - ont réalisé d’excellents résultats qui montrent l’extraordinaire appétit du marché pour des pièces rares, de grande qualité et jouissant d’une illustre provenance ».

GENEVA.- This evening Sotheby’s Geneva sold the most important emerald and diamond tiara to have appeared at auction in over 30 years for CHF 11,282,500 /$12,736,927, the highest price ever achieved for a tiara at auction. Six bidders competed for the magnificent and extremely rare emerald and diamond tiara, circa 1900, which was formerly in the Collection of Princess Katharina Henckel von Donnersmarck (est. CHF 4.6-9.2 million/$5-10 million [lot 443]); the price it fetched also represented an auction record for a piece of emerald jewellery. The total for the entire sale of Magnificent and Noble Jewels was CHF 78,944,900/$89,121,687 (est. CHF 41.9 - 69 million / $ 47.3 – 77.9 million).

Commenting on this evening’s sale, David Bennett, Chairman of Sotheby’s Jewellery Department for Europe and the Middle East, said: “Sotheby’s was honoured to be able to offer perhaps the grandest piece of jewellery to come to sale in over 30 years and the market responded with enthusiasm. This evening’s results, across the board -- in Noble Jewels, diamonds, coloured gemstones, and pieces signed by the world’s greatest jewelers – show the extraordinary appetite among connoisseurs for rarity, quality and provenance.”

A Magnificent and Rare Emerald and Diamond Tiara, formerly in the Collection of Princess Katharina Henckel Von Donnersmarck, circa 1900. Photo: Sotheby's

Formed as a crown of foliate and floral inspiration, the base set with a central row of eleven larger cushion-shaped diamonds, each collet set between pairs of muguets, above a line of laurel leaf motifs and surmounted by festooned ribbons, pierced and millegrain set throughout with rose and brilliant-cut diamonds, surmount by a row of eleven polished pear-shaped emeralds, totalling approximately 500 carats, graduated in size from the centre, each emerald drilled and held in diamond set cusp motifs, the nine largest tipped by rose diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, later detachable tiara fitting.. Estimate 4,600,000—9,200,000 CHF. Lot Sold 11,282,500 CHF (12,736,927 USD) to an Anonymous.

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 11030069 stating that the emeralds are of Colombian origin, with indications of minor clarity enhancement.

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: This magnificent emerald and diamond tiara is possibly the most important to have appeared at auction in over 30 years - since in fact it was sold at Sotheby's Zurich in 1979. It is also probably the grandest tiara to exist outside Royal, State and museum collections.

When this tiara was first offered at auction at Sotheby's in Zurich, on 15th November 1979, lot 823, the catalogue footnote stated that family tradition linked the eleven pear-shaped emerald drops to the French Imperial Crown Jewels. In Paris in 1887, seventeen years after the fall of the monarchy, the French government sold the Crown Jewels at public auction. Despite the fact that Empress Eugénie adored emeralds, there were very few jewels set with emeralds in the illustrated catalogue of the sale, and none set with stones similar to the pear-shaped drops of this tiara. However, in 1872, the sale of Empress Eugénie private collection of jewels had included 25 polished emerald drops. An annotated copy of the sale catalogue is held at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London where the buyer of each lot is identified. At the time of the sale no one single buyer bought sufficient emerald drops to create this tiara, but it is entirely possible that at a later stage a group of 11 emeralds originally purchased at the 1872 sale, was put together to crown this superb jewel commissioned by Count Guido Henckel von Donnersmarck for his second wife Katharina Wassilievna de Slepzoff. The Imperial provenance of the stones would have been a perfect fit to the grandeur of the commission and the status of the Donnersmarcks: as it is known Count Henckel von Donnersmarck also bought Empress Eugénie's pearls for his wife La Païva through two different agents on the occasion of their marriage in 1871.

The eleven exceptionally rare emerald drops are truly outstanding Colombian specimens of superb colour and size. They would originally have been drilled and polished in India, probably during the 17th or 18th century, and would almost certainly, have adorned the neck of a Maharaja.

The tiara is not signed and does not bear any mark, however in quality of design and manufacture, it is in line with the best creations of the great Parisian Maisons of the time. Boucheron and Chaumet were the favoured jewellers of fin de siècle European nobility and the Henckel von Donnersmarck were patrons of both firms. Chaumet in particular, in 1896, had been commissioned by Count Henckel von Donnersmarck to produce a crown of diamond leaves and ribbons which could be surmounted by five emeralds or pearls, and is entirely possible that the same firm created the tiara offered here, with its line of laurel leaves, swags and lily-of-the-valley motifs.

Un superbe diamant rose pesant 10.99 carats (lot 491) a par ailleurs été adjugé à  International Jewellers Leviev pour CHF 9.602.500 ($10.840.358), devenant ainsi le troisième diamant rose le plus cher vendu aux enchères et décrochant la neuvième enchère la plus élevée pour un diamant. Depuis leur découverte, il y a plusieurs siècles en Inde, les diamants roses n’ont cessé de fasciner. Leur rareté et leur beauté exceptionnelles en font par ailleurs des pièces très prisées des collectionneurs et des professionnels. Ce superbe diamant, monté en bague, a été certifié de couleur naturelle « fancy intense pink » et de pureté VS1 par le Gemological Institute of America (GIA). Il s’agit par ailleurs d’un diamant de type IIa, une catégorie très recherchée ne représentant que 2% des diamants répertoriés dans le monde. Les pierres appartenant à cette catégorie représentent les cristaux de diamants les plus chimiquement purs et possèdent souvent une extraordinaire transparence optique. La beauté et la rareté de cette superbe pierre tiennent par ailleurs à sa forme et à sa taille émeraude classique, un style de coupe normalement associé aux diamants blancs et fort recherché pour des diamants de couleur, notamment roses et bleus. Estimé à CHF 8,3-14,8 millions ($9-16 millions), ce diamant provenait d’une collection privée et n’était pas apparu sur le marché depuis plus de 30 ans.

International jewellers Leviev outbid four underbidders to purchase a superb fancy intense pink diamond, weighing 10.99 carats, for CHF 9,602,500/$10,840,358,  the third highest price for a pink diamond (the ninth highest price for a diamond at auction). Pink diamonds have been prized for their rarity and spectacular beauty ever since they were first discovered in the mines of India centuries ago. This superb stone, mounted as a ring, has been graded “fancy intense pink”, natural colour and VS1 clarity by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA). It has been further assessed to be part of a very rare subgroup of diamonds known as type IIa and comprising less than 2% of all of the world’s gem diamonds. Estimated at CHF 8.3-14.8 million ($9-16 million [lot 491]), this stone was offered for sale from a private collection and has not appeared on the market for more than 30 years.



Very Important and Rare Fancy Intense Pink diamond ring. Photo: Sotheby's

The emerald-cut fancy intense pink diamond weighing 10.99 carats, the shoulders set with triangular stones, mounted in platinum, size 45. Estimate 8,300,000—14,800,000 CHF. Lot Sold 9,602,500 CHF (10,840,358 USD) to International Jewellers Leviev

Accompanied by GIA report no. 2125903041 stating that the diamond is Fancy Intense Pink, Natural Colour, VS1 Clarity.

Further accompanied by a GIA type classification report, stating that the diamond is a Type IIa pink diamond: '...Type IIa pink diamonds are very rare in nature, often have relatively few inclusions and are noted for their mostly homogenous colour in the rough. 

Attractive Fancy Light Pink diamond ring. Photo: Sotheby's

The fancy light pink brilliant-cut diamond weighing 11.11 carats, the shoulders decorated with near-colourless brilliant-cut stones, mounted in platinum, size 48½. Estimate 320,000—500,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,986,500 CHF (2,242,580 USD) to an Anonymous

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1132191702 stating that the diamond is Fancy Light Pink, Natural Colour, VVS1 Clarity.

Further accompanied by GIA type classification report stating that this stone is a Type IIa pink diamond. '...Type IIa pink diamonds are very rare in nature, often have relatively few inclusions and are noted for their mostly homogenous colour in the rough...'

BIJOUX DE PROVENANCE ARISTOCRATIQUE
La section dédiée à des bijoux de provenance aristocratique et comprenant la magnifique tiare en émeraude et diamants (lot 443) a établi un total de CHF 19.618.300! $22.147.295, plus du double des estimations précédant la vente (est. CHF 7.282.000-13.203.500/ $8.220.723-14.905.563).

Parmi les lots phares de cette section figuraient des pièces provenant de La Collection de l’Excelentfsima Sra. Condesa vda. de Romanones. Grande d’Espagne, agent secret, la Comtesse de Romariones a mené une vie fascinante, tissée d’aventures, de mystères et de faste qui ont inspiré de nombreuses pages de ses romans è succès. De magnifiques pièces de sa collection ont réalisé de très belles enchères. Six acheteurs potentiels se sont disputés une demi-parure en émeraudes et diamants datant des années 1960 jusqu’à CHF 362.500! $409.230 (lot 407, est. CHF 100.000-150.000/ $103.000-147.000). Un coliier/broche en rubis et diamants des années 1970 a trouvé preneur pour CHF 170.500/$192.479 (lot 409, est. CHF 80.000-150.000/ $81.500-147.000) tandis qu’une paire de boucles d’oreilles en rubis et diamants des années 1950 s’est vendu pour CHF 17.500/ $19.756 (lot 410, est. CHE 14.000-18.000/ $15.000-20.000).

NOBLE JEWELS
The total Sotheby’s achieved for Noble Jewels, including the tiara, was CHF 19,618,300/$ 22,147,295 (against pre-sale estimates of CHF 7,282,000-13,203,500/$8,220,723 - 14,905,563).

Among other highlights of the Noble Jewels section were jewels from the Collection of the Excelentísima Sra. Condesa vda. de Romanones, a Grande de España who was recruited to become an OSS agent in Madrid during World War II before marrying Don Luis de Figueroa y Perez de Guzmán el Bueno, Count of Quintanilla in 1947. From the Countess of Romanones collection was an emerald and diamond demi-parure from the 1960s, which was competed for by six bidders and sold for CHF 362,500/$409,230 (lot 407, est. CHF 100,000-150,000/$103,000-147,000), a ruby and diamond necklace/brooch combination from the 1970s, which sold for CHF 170,500/$192,479 (lot 409, est. CHF 80,000-150,000/ $81,500-147,000) and a pair of ruby and diamond pendent earrings, 1950s, which sold for CHF 17,500/$19,756 (lot 410, est. CHF 14,000–18,000/ $15,000-20,000).

Emerald and diamond demi-parure. Photo: Sotheby's

Comprising: a necklace designed as graduated series of clusters, each centring on a cabochon emerald, to a border and connections collet-set with brilliant-cut diamonds, length approximately 540mm, the central drop is detachable and may be worn as a dress clip, together with a pair of ear pendants similarly set, clip and post fittings, pochette. Estimate 95,000—135,000 CHF. Lot Sold 362,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: By family tradition the emeralds mounted in this jewel were purchased from a Spanish jeweller who acquired them from Maharajkumar Ajit Sing.

During the festivities on the occasion of the marriage of King Alfonso XIII of Spain in Madrid, the Maharaja Jagatjit Singh Bahadur of Kapurtala fell in love and married in 1908 Anita Delgado Briones, a famous flamenco dancer and singer from Malaga. After the marriage she changed her name to Maharani Prem Kaur and gave the maharaja a son, Maharajkumar Ajit Sing. The couple travelled in Europe and India but eventually the relationship fell apart. They separated and Anita stayed in Paris with her son. She died on 7^th July 1972 in Madrid.

NOTE: Property from the collection of the Excelentísima Sra. Condesa Vda. de Romanones, con Grandeza de España, including a Bracelet/Watch formerly in the collection of the Duchess of Windsor

The holder of Spain's highest decoration: the Order de Isabel la Católica, a best-selling author, the most generous of hostesses and a Grande de España, the Excelentísima Sra. Condesa Vda. de Romanones has led a life packed with allure, mystique and adventure. Her story would make a truly great film plot.

The Condesa was born Aline Griffith in Pearl River NY. After a rigorous training, as a young lady she worked in Madrid as a spy during the critical years of the Second World War, at a time when the city was an important hub for espionage. Her contributions were to prove vital for the United States and their allies as seen later at the Nüremberg trials. "I stepped out into a completely unknown world", she said in her first book, The Story of Pascualete, (her husband's family estate dating from the thirteen century). But, it was a world which soon capitulated, as it yielded to the dazzling, stylish American beauty, who effortlessly and gracefully adapted to her new life in Spain. In 1947, dressed in Balenciaga couture, the Condesa married don Luis de Figueroa y Perez de Guzmán el Bueno, the dashing scion of one of the grandest families of the realm. The Condesa, a Hall of Fame member of the International Best Dressed List, soon after became the toast the grand monde. She established herself at the centre of society, hosting shooting parties and entertaining lavishly in her homes. Her guest list included the world leaders of the twentieth century as well as key players in Hollywood and members of the European aristocracy. "It seems to me that my husband and I went from one after the other", the Condesa reflects today on the frenetic social scene which erupted after the end of the War, where grand Balls were de rigueur. Charles de Besteigui's Ball at Venice's Labia Palace and the many balls that the Condesa attended at Ferrières, home of her friend the extraordinary Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, are favourite highlights of this era. The Condesa recollects, "My Era was the end of the glamour the world had known for centuries", where quick wit, beauty and elegance were of paramount importance. "With great Jewels you can walk into any exceptional place and know you belong" she adds, stressing that although dress, hair and makeup are always important, jewels are indispensable. "The jewels give importance to you and what you wear. It is what their sparkle do for you. A simple black dress and a knock-out jewel always light a room. They make you glitter. Jewels are a definite advantage to women".

Among her many friends were the Duke and Duchess of Windsor - the latter, "treated me like a daughter" the Condesa recounts. Her vast and eclectic circle included Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, 'Babe' Paley and Betsy Cushing Whitney, as well as Ferdinand and Imelda Marcos, the legendary Cayetana XVIII Duchess of Alba and screen icons, Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn and Ava Gardner. The Condesa is a peerless witnes.

Ruby and diamond necklace/brooch combination, 1970s. Photo: Sotheby's

Designed as graduated rows of polished ruby beads, suspending to the centre a pendant/brooch of open work floral design set with cabochon rubies and brilliant-, circular- and single-cut diamonds, to annular and foliate connecting links set with brilliant- and single-cut stones, mounted in white gold, length approximately 533mm, pendant is detachable and may be worn as a brooch. Estimate 75,000—135,000 CHF. Lot Sold 170,500 CHF

NOTE: Property from the collection of the Excelentísima Sra. Condesa Vda. de Romanones, con Grandeza de España, including a Bracelet/Watch formerly in the collection of the Duchess of Windsor

The Excelentísima Sra. Condesa Vda. de Romanones encapsulates the magnificent poise of European aristocracy, combined with New World flair, zest and a lack of self-consciousness.

Her jewels are a faithful testimony to her inimitable chic, at times gifts from illustrious figures such as the Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet/watch (lot 411) presented to her by the Duchess of Windsor.

Pair of ruby and diamond pendent earrings, 1950s. Photo: Sotheby's

Each stylised ribbon surmount set with brilliant- and single-cut diamonds, suspending a cushion-shaped ruby within a surround of marquise-shaped diamonds, to articulated lines of baguette and single-cut stones, clip and post fittings. Estiimate 14,000—18,000 CHF. Lot Sold 17,500 CHF

NOTE: Property from the collection of the Excelentísima Sra. Condesa Vda. de Romanones, con Grandeza de España, including a Bracelet/Watch formerly in the collection of the Duchess of Windsor

Témoin de l’amitié qui liait la Comtesse au Duc et à la Duchesse de Windsor, un bracelet/montre « Cadenas » en diamants, cadeau de la Duchesse à la Comtesse a été vendu pour CHF 362.500! $409.230. Estimée à CHE46.000-63.000/ $49.900-68.500, cette pièce signée Van Cleef & Arpels datait de 1936 et avait été achetée par WalIis Simpson la même année (lot 411).

Testament to the Countess’ close relationship to the Duke and the Duchess of Windsor was an important “Cadenas” diamond bracelet/watch, gifted to the Countess by the Duchess herself. Dating circa 1936, this exquisite piece signed Van Cleef & Arpels, which sold for five times the high estimate to fetch CHF 362,500/$409,230 (lot 411, est. CHF 46,000-63,000/ $49,900-68,500).

Important 'Cadenas' diamond bracelet/watch, Van Cleef & Arpels, circa 1936. Photo: Sotheby's

The square dial applied with dot indicators inset within a mount highlighted with single-, circular- and brilliant-cut and baguette diamonds, to a two row bracelet of snake linking and a diamond set clasp, mounted in platinum, length approximately 170mm, signed Van Cleef & Arpels and numbered, French assay and maker's marks, case inscribed 'For their 3 anniversary, 12.III.36, and Our tub, 17.III.36'. Estimate 46,000—63,000 CHF. Lot Sold 362,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Marc Petit, Van Cleef & Arpels; Reflets D'Eternité, Paris, 2005, page 81 and image numbers 200 - 203 for similar examples.

Cf: Palais Galliera, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paris, 1992, page 129 for similar examples.

NOTE: This jewel can be found listed in the original inventory of the Duchess of Windsor's jewellery, item number 219; 'bracelet-montre - 2 chaine serpent (sic) rondes platine motif 1/2 anneau brillants ronds en pavage, boitier brillants ronds sur platine.'

This bracelet/watch was gifted from the Duchess of Windsor to the Condesa Vda. de Romanones.

The inscription on the reverse, is a facsimile of the Duke of Windsor's handwriting, at this time he was in fact King Edward VIII but was never crowned. Upon the death of his father, King George V who died on 20th January 1936, Edward became King until his abdication eleven months later. He married Wallis Simpson on 3rd June 1937 when they assumed the titles Duke and Duchess of Windsor.

Diamants blancs
Parmi les diamants blancs de couleur D offerts ce soir, des pièces signées par de grands joailliers se sont distinguées: une très belle bague Graff, sertie d’un diamant de forme coussin, taille brillant, « internally flawless » pesant 16,53 carats s’est vendue pour CHF 2.546.500/$2.874,769 (lot 490, est. CHF 1.380.000-2.300.000/ $1.500.000- 2.500.000), tandis qu’une une bague signée M. Gerard, ornée d’un diamant taille marquise de 15,76 carats réalisait une enchère de CHF 1.314.500/ $1.483.952 (lot 471. est. CHF 830.000-1.500.000/ $900.000- 1.600.000).

White diamonds
Among a group of exceptional white diamonds which are D colour were signed pieces, including an attractive diamond ring by GRAFF, set with a cushion-shaped brilliant-cut internally flawless diamond weighing 16.53 carats, which sold for CHF 2,546,500/$2,874,769 (lot 490, est. CHF 1,380,000-2,300,000/ $1,500,000- 2,500,000) and a diamond ring by M. Gerard, featuring a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 15.76 carats, which was competed for by five bidders and sold for CHF 1,314,500/$1,483,952 (lot 471, est. CHF 830,000- 1,500,000/ $900,000-1,600,000).

Magnificent Diamond ring, Graff. Photo: Sotheby's

The cushion-shaped brilliant-cut diamond weighing 16.53 carats, the mount and shoulders embellished with brilliant-cut stones, mounted in platinum, size 48, signed Graff, French assay and significantly erased maker's marks. Estimate 1,380,000—2,300,000 CHF. Lot Sold 2,546,500 CHF to an Anonymous

Accompanied by GIA report no. 11394947, dated January 4th, 2001, stating that the diamond is D Colour, Internally Flawless. Also accompanied by GIA report no. 1132310876, dated 12 April 2011, stating that the diamond is D Colour and VVS2 Clarity, further accompanied by a working diagram from the GIA showing that the stone can be returned to Internally Flawless clarity after minor repolishing. This is consistent with normal wear.

Important Diamond ring, M. Gérard. Photo: Sotheby's

Claw-set with a marquise-shaped diamond weighing 15.76 carats, between shoulders set with tapered baguettes, mounted in yellow gold, size 54, signed M. Gérard and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Estimate 830,000—1,500,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,314,500 CHF to a Private Buyer

Accompanied by GIA report no. 5131243945 stating that the diamond is D Colour, VVS1 Clarity.

Important Unmounted diamond. Photo: Sotheby's

The heart-shaped diamond weighing 16.98 carats. Estimate 920,000—1,380,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,426,500 CHF (1,610,390 USD) to a Private Buyer

Accompanied by GIA report no. 1132310811, stating that the diamond is D Colour, VVS1 Clarity

Gemmes de couleurs
Les résultats pour les pierres précieuses de couleur ont été menés par une importante sélection de saphirs du Cachemire, considérés comme les plus beaux saphirs au monde. Une bague en saphir et diamants, sertie d’un saphir de taille rectangulaire à pans coupés pesant 8,74 carats et datant d’environ 1930 a ainsi été adjugée pour CHF 410.500/ $463.418 (lot 464, est. CHF 230.000315.000/ $250.000-340.000); une broche en saphirs et diamants en forme de fleur a atteint CHF 1.426.500/ $1.610.390 (lot 488, est. CHF 185.000-370.000/ $200.000-400.000) et une paire de boucles d’oreilles en saphirs et diamants, ornées de deux saphirs taille coussin pesant respectivement 7,30 et 7,07 carats a été vendue pour CHF 1,082,500/ $ 1,222,045 (lot 489, est. CHF 185.000-370.000/ $200.000-400.000).

Coloured Gemstones
The offering of coloured stones was led by an exceptionally large assortment of Kashmir sapphires, the finest sapphires in the world, including a sapphire and diamond ring, set with an octagonal step-cut sapphire weighing 8.74 carats and dating from circa 1930, which sold for CHF 410,500/$463,418 (lot 464, est. CHF 230,000-315,000/$250,000-340,000); an attractive sapphire and diamond brooch designed as stylised floral spray, competed for by five bidders and sold for more than three times the estimate to bring CHF 1,426,500/$1,610,390 (lot 488, est. CHF 185,000-370,000/ $200,000-400,000), and a pair of sapphire and diamond pendent ear clips, suspending a cushion-sapphire weighing 7.30 and 7.07 carats respectively, which sold for CHF 1,082,500/$1,222,045 (lot 489, CHF 185,000-370,000/$200,000-400,000.

Fine Sapphire and diamond ring, circa 1930. Photo: Sotheby's

The octagonal step-cut sapphire weighing 8.74 carats set between open work geometric shoulders decorated with baguette and square-cut diamonds, mounted in white gold, size 50½.  Estimate 230,000—315,000 CHF. Lot Sold 410,500 CHF

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 58874 stating that the sapphire is of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Completing this selection of coloured gemstones were two impressive Burmese rubies: The first - a spectacular 30.20 carat cushion-shaped ruby, mounted as a ring - sold for CHF 3,778,500/$4,265,586 (lot 484, est. CHF 1,850,000 – 3,650,000 / $2,000,000–4,000,000); the second – a 29.40 carat oval ruby mounted as a ring by Cartier - sold for CHF 1,314,500/$1,483,952 (lot 469, est. CHF 920,000-1,850,000 / $1,000,000-2,000,000).

Attractive sapphire and diamond brooch. Photo: Sotheby's

Designed as a stylised floral spray, the flower head centres, mounted en tremblant, set with three cushion-shaped sapphires weighing 6.71, 7.00 and 10.21 carats respectively, the petals set with marquise-shaped diamonds, the stem with baguette diamonds. Estimate 185,000—370,000 CHF. Lot Sold: 1,426,500 CHF (1,610,390 USD) to an International Trade

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 11030066 and SSEF report no. 59274 both stating that the sapphires are of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Important Pair of sapphire and diamond pendent ear clips. Photo: Sotheby's

Each surmount designed as a cluster of brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a stylised diamond set drop highlighted with a cushion-shaped sapphire weighing 7.30 and 7.07 carats respectively, screw fittings. Estimate 185,000—370,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,082,500 CHF

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 11030067 and SSEF report no. 59275 both stating that the sapphires are of Kashmir origin, with no indications of heating.

Parmi les autres gemmes de couleurs exceptionnels vendus ce soir figuraient deux impressionnants rubis birmans: le premier, un prodigieux rubis taille coussin de 30,20 carats, monté en bague a été vendu pour CHF 3.778.500/ $4.265.586 (lot 484, est. CHF 1.850.000-3.650.000/ $2.000.000-4.000.000), tandis que le second - un rubis ovale de 29,40 carats monté en bague par Cartier a trouvé preneur pour CHF 1.314.500/ $1.483.952 (lot 469, CHF 920.000-1.850.000/ $1.000.000- 2.000.000.

Completing this selection of coloured gemstones were two impressive Burmese rubies: The first - a spectacular 30.20 carat cushion-shaped ruby, mounted as a ring - sold for CHF 3,778,500/$4,265,586 (lot 484, est. CHF 1,850,000 – 3,650,000 / $2,000,000–4,000,000); the second – a 29.40 carat oval ruby mounted as a ring by Cartier - sold for CHF 1,314,500/$1,483,952 (lot 469, est. CHF 920,000-1,850,000 / $1,000,000-2,000,000).

Spectacular Ruby and diamond ring. Photo: Sotheby's

The cushion-shaped ruby weighing 30.20 carats of exceptional colour, flanked by pear-shaped diamonds weighing respectively 2.00 and 2.02 carats, mounted in platinum, size 52.. Estimate 1,850,000—3,650,000 CHF. Lot Sold 3,778,500 CHF (4,265,586 USD) to an Anonymous

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 0911024 stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with indications of heating.

Further accompanied by photocopies of GIA reports no. 14345714 and no. 14605372 stating that the diamonds weighing respectively 2.00 and 2.02 carats are both D Colour, Internally Flawless.

Very Impressive Ruby and diamond ring, Monture Cartier. Photo: Sotheby's

The oval ruby weighing 29.40 carats to a shank entirely set with brilliant-cut diamonds, mounted in platinum,size52½, signed Monture Cartier and numbered, French assay and maker's marks. Estimate 920,000—1,850,000 CHF. Lot Sold1,314,500 CHF (1,483,952 USD) to a Private Buyer

Accompanied by Gübelin report no. 0003678 and SSEF report no. 58779 both stating that the ruby is of Burmese origin, with no indications of heating.

Une superbe bague en émeraude et diamants, ornée d’une émeraude colombienne de 12,03 carats, taille rectangulaire à pans coupés, décrite par le laboratoire SSEF comme « un trésor réellement exceptionnel» a été adjugée CHE 554.500/ $625.981 (lot 468, est. CHF 460.000-735.000/ $500.000-800.000).

A superb emerald and diamond ring, set with an octagonal step-cut Colombian emerald weighing 12.03 carats, which has been described by the SSEF laboratory as “a very exceptional treasure”, sold for CHF 554,500/$625,981 (lot 468, est. CHF 460,000-735,000/ $500,000-800,000).

Very Fine Emerald and diamond ring. Photo: Sotheby's

The octagonal step-cut emerald weighing 12.03 carats, flanked by trapeze diamonds, size 52½.  Estimate  460,000—735,000 CHF. Lot Sold 554,500 CHF

Accompanied by SSEF report no. 58236 stating that the emerald is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity modification.

Further accompanied by SSEF letter stating: ' ...Natural emeralds from Colombia of this size and quality represent a great rarity and the described gemstone is thus a very exceptional treasure...'

Important Pair of spinel and diamond pendent ear clips. Photo: Sotheby's

Each decorated with a step-cut pink spinel weighing 20.00 and 20.07 carats respectively bordered by brilliant-cut diamonds, suspending a detachable pear-shaped diamond drop weighing respectively 7.27 and 8.78 carats surmounted by a pair of similar stones, mounted in white gold and platinum. Estimate 1,105,000—1,655,000 CHF. Lot Sold 1,594,500 CHF (1,800,047 USD) to an International Trade

Accompanied by GIA reports no. 10269022 and no. 10273331 respectively dated 1997 and 1998 and stating that the diamonds are D Colour, Internally Flawless. Also accompanied by two GIA reports dated 12 April 2011: no. 2135310812 stating that the 7.27 carat diamond is D Colour and VVS2 Clarity and no. 2135310881, stating that the 8.78 carat diamond is D Colour and VVS1 Clarity; both further accompanied by a working diagram from the GIA showing that the two diamonds can be returned to Internally Flawless clarity after minor repolishing. This is consistent with normal wear.

Together with GRS report no. GRS2008-012150 stating that the spinels show no indication of treatments and with a special comment saying that they are a very rare combination of size, fine colour, excellent brilliancy and cut.

Bijoux d’époque et créations des plus grands joailliers
Les bijoux d’époque et des créations des plus grands joailliers étaient également à l’honneur ce soir. Illustrant à la perfection le style Art Déco, un bracelet bandeau en diamants ciselé de motifs floraux signé Boucheron et datant d’environ 1925 a été vendu CHF 554.500/$625.981 (lot 485, est. CHF 110.000-165.000/ $120.000- 180.000).

Autre grande signature de la sélection, JAR, reconnu mondialement comme l’un des plus talentueux joailliers de sa génération s’est distingué par une époustouflante paire de boucles d’oreilles en pierres précieuses et diamants, adjugée CHE 338.500/ $382.136 (lot 447, est. CHF 95.000185.000/ $100.000-200.000) 

Fine period and signed jewels
Among the period jewels was a masterpiece of Art Deco jewellery, a fine diamond bracelet created by Boucheron circa 1925, which sold for CHF 554,500/$625,981 (lot 485, est. CHF 110,000–165,000/ $120,000-180,000). Among the other great signatures in the sale was a stunning pair of gem-set and diamond ear clips by JAR, which sold for CHF 338,500/$382,136 (lot 447, est. 95,000-185,000/ $100,000-200,000).

 

Fine Diamond bracelet, Boucheron, circa 1925. Photo: Sotheby's

The flexible wide band composed of four rows of square links set with circular-cut diamonds, embellished with pairs of stylised roses each centring on a circular-cut stone, mounted in platinum, length approximately 182mm signed Boucheron Paris, French maker's and assay marks. Estimate 110,000—165,000 CHF. Lot Sold 554,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: Gilles Néret, Boucheron Une dynastie de Joailliers, Fribourg, 1988, page 84 for the use of a similar motif in a diadem exhibited at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.

Cf: Sotheby's, Magnificent Jewelry, New York, October 17 and 18th 1988, lot 416 for a very similar bracelet.

Spectacular pair of gem-set and diamond ear clips, JAR. Photo: Sotheby's

Each designed as a stylised articulated feather, set with circular-cut gemstones such as sapphires, garnets, tourmalines and spinels of various sizes and colours, accented with single-cut diamonds, mounted in gold and silver, signed JAR's Paris, French assay and maker's marks, case. Estimate 95,000—185,000 CHF. Lot Sold 338,500 CHF

LITERATURE AND REFERENCES: Cf: JAR Paris, London, 2002 for several examples of jewels of naturalistic inspiration using faceted gemstones in graduated colours.

NOTE: Widely acknowledged as being the most talented jeweller of his generation, JAR was established on the Place Vendôme in Paris in 1977 by Joël Arthur Rosenthal, better known by his trade name JAR. Born in New York City, Rosenthal studied art history at Harvard University, later working in the film industry and then with Bulgari. Drawing upon the past, but allowing his natural creativity to dominate, he has reinterpreted jewellery as an art form, crossing the boundaries between ornamental jewels and sculpture. JAR's work is always imaginative and beautifully crafted and often incorporates unusual gemstones in brilliant and unexpected combinations. A 10th anniversary celebration exhibition was held in New York in 1987 and a larger highly glamorous retrospective of 400 jewels was on show at The Gilbert Collection, Somerset House in London in 2002.

Sotheby's. Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels, 17 May 11, Geneva www.sothebys;com